Credit cards get pitched as a tool for points and cash back, and honestly that part's true — as long as you pay the balance off every month. The moment you start carrying a balance though, you've handed the bank exactly what they were hoping for. The whole product is structured around that one moment.
Look at that minimum payment line on your statement. The bank didn't put it there out of generosity. They calculated it to extract the maximum amount of interest over the longest possible timeframe without you technically defaulting. It usually runs 2–3% of your balance, and the overwhelming majority of it goes straight to interest charges.
Run the math on $5,000 at 22% APR with a $100 minimum payment: roughly $91 of that goes to the bank as pure interest. Nine dollars — nine — actually chips away at what you owe. At that rate you're still paying this off long after your kids are done with school.
Plug your own numbers in below. Most people are genuinely shocked when they see what minimum payments are actually costing them.
Before you go scorched-earth on everything, it's worth distinguishing between debt that's actively hurting you and debt that's just... there. Credit cards and payday loans — anything in the 15–30% range — those are genuinely damaging and need to go fast.
A 4% mortgage or a 5.5% student loan is a different situation entirely. If your student loan charges 5% but you can consistently earn 7% investing in a broad index fund, rushing to pay down that loan costs you money in opportunity. For debt below roughly 6%, paying minimums and investing the rest often wins mathematically. The cutoff isn't a hard rule, but 6% is a reasonable line.
You can't fill a bathtub if the drain is still open. Every new charge on a card you're trying to pay down is working directly against you. The first move is always to stop the inflow before attacking the balance.
If your credit score is around 670 or above, a 0% APR balance transfer card can be genuinely useful. A lot of them offer 12–21 months of zero interest on transferred balances, meaning every dollar you pay goes straight to principal with nothing lost to interest.
The catch: most carry a 3–5% transfer fee upfront, and if you haven't cleared the full balance when the promo ends, some cards will retroactively charge interest on everything. This is only worth doing if you have a concrete plan to pay it off, not just a vague intention to try.
Any amount above your minimums goes 100% to principal. Even an extra $50 a month can shave years off. Run the numbers in the calculator above, then decide which approach fits you better.
List every debt by interest rate, highest to lowest. Pay the minimums everywhere, then throw everything extra at the most expensive one. Once it's gone, roll that entire payment into the next one down the list. Mathematically, this destroys the most interest over time.
Ignore the interest rates entirely. Sort by balance, smallest to largest, and obliterate the smallest one first. When it's gone, that payment gets added to the attack on the next one. It costs a little more in total interest than the Avalanche, but crossing debts off the list completely does something useful for motivation — and motivation is the variable that actually determines whether people follow through.
Pick the one you'll actually stick with. A slightly suboptimal method you maintain for 18 months beats a mathematically perfect plan you abandon by March.
Ready to see the numbers for yourself?
→ Calculate how long your savings will last